Grow Your Own Popcorn!

As interest in healthy eating continues to grow, May is the time for backyard gardeners to make room for a family favorite that is also good for you: popcorn. This dent corn relative is one of the best all-around snack foods, providing almost as much protein, iron and calcium as beef. A cup of popped, unbuttered popcorn contains fewer calories than half a medium-sized grapefruit, about 40. Popcorn, a whole grain, has as much fiber as bran flakes or whole wheat toast.

Unlike the drab sameness of store-bought hybrid popcorn, there are many different kinds available for the home gardener via catalogs, nurseries and seed stores. 

Robust Y128 Hybrid Popcorn

Besides the traditional big and chewy "movie-style" yellow hybrid popcorn, you can choose among several smaller, crunchier white varieties, including many heirlooms. 

 

And for fall decorations, it's hard to beat the colorful popcorns that include blue, red and black kernels.

 A word about hybrid versus heirloom popcorns: hybrid varieties are bred to produce more cobs per stalk as well as larger cobs. Hybrid popcorns tend to pop up bigger, as well. The downside: the seed you collect from your popcorn harvest will not come back true to the original if you plant it the following year. Heirloom popcorn tends to have the same problems as other heirlooms: more susceptible to insect and disease problems; a smaller harvest; smaller kernels. 

The big upside to heirlooms: better flavor! Plus, if you planted the heirloom popcorn away from other varieties of corn, the kernels you collect this year can be planted the following year...the result being the same great flavor!

Wisconsin Black, Pennsylvania Butter Corn, Cherokee Long Ear

During late May or early June, plant your own popcorn the same way you would plant sweet corn. Choose a site that gets full sun and a soil that drains easily (no standing water). Plant the kernels, two inches deep, six inches apart. For better pollination, plant in short blocks instead of a single row. Thin out the seedlings to stand 10-12 inches apart; space the rows at intervals of three feet. Don't plant popcorn within 100 feet of sweet corn; cross pollination could ruin both crops. Three fertilizations work best: at planting time; when the stalks are knee high; and again when tassels appear at the top of the stalks. Water the popcorn thoroughly, once or twice a week.

Harvesting Your Popcorn: About the time the Major League Baseball Playoffs begin (early October), your popcorn should be ready to harvest. The stalks will be mostly brown, the husks will be dry and the kernels hard. Try popping a few kernels on the stove in a pan of hot oil at this stage; if most of them pop, that's your sign to remove the ears from the stalks. Husk the ears, place them in a mesh bag or old nylon stocking to cure for two to three weeks in a warm, dry, well ventilated area. Again, pop a few kernels; if they pop, strip the kernels from the cobs and store the kernels in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

Is It Popcorn Yet? 13% moisture level is ideal. Popcorn that is chewy after popping is still too wet; let the kernels dry some more, popping a few every couple of days until the popcorn is no longer chewy. If you get too many unpopped kernels, add moisture to the storage container. Pour one tablespoon of water over a quart of popcorn, shake it up a couple of times on Day 1. By Day 3, try popping another batch. Repeat this procedure until most of the kernels are popping.

A hard-to-find device to ease that process when you have lots of popcorn: the little stripper (no, we are not talking about midget lap dancers moonlighting as farm workers). A quick search found this handy tool at the on-line seed source, Jung Seed.

Store the kernels in an airtight container in a cool, dry place.

More information about growing popcorn from the Universities of Wisconsin  and Minnesota.

 

Our 2012 Tomato, Pepper Garden

First of all, 2011 doesn't count. The unusually cool, wet spring and nearly non-existent summer here in the Sacramento area last year played havoc with just about all the tomato varieties: low production, late production, no production! The peppers, too, were late to ripen. 

Lemon Boy,  center

Probably the best performing tomato last year was Lemon Boy, which is a solid producer, year after year here. But again, we won't consider last year's results in this year's trials. 

Late April 2012 is becoming more typical of our mid-spring weather here: nighttime temperatures over 50, soil temperatures over 60. And today, April 28 is Official Tomato Planting Day here in California; and the weather is ideal: clear, high near 80, overnight low near 52...and sunny, warmer days in the seven-day forecast.

The rain and cool days may have ended, if you want to believe the National Weather Service's Long Range Forecast for interior California.


So, fingers crossed, here are the tomatoes and peppers we have in the ground this April:


Tomatoes:
Isis Candy
Big Beef (300 g)
Solid Gold grape tomato
Early Girl (110-140 g)
Celebrity (226 g)
Bloody Butcher
Heatwave
Sweet Million
Mandarin Cross
Dr. Wyche’s Yellow
Sungold (14 g)
Lemon Boy VFNASt
German Giant
 
New Hybrids for us:
Poseidon 43: pink low acid tomato. Globe, 78 days, 225 g

Tye-Dye: bright yellow-orange red. Round, Indeterminate 195 grams, 78 days

Caramba: red, 75 days, flat, indeterminate, 250-300g

Amsterdam: grape/plum tomato. highest brix of all tomatoes tested. 68 days, 22 grams.

Yaqui: red blocky saladette, 85-105 grams, 75 days, determinate vigorous

Peppers:
Flamingo
Serrano Tampiqueno
NuMex Joe E. Parker
Gypsy
Jimmy Nardello
Tequila
Bhut Jolokia  (Ghost Pepper)
Cayennetta F1 (AAS winner)
Giant Marconi
And a new introduction, Sweet Orange Blaze: an AAS winner. Orange skin, small - 125g. Plant 30" tall.